From the Timeless Streets of Modena to the 2026 Venice Biennale

Part II — Venice / Biennale 

After two hours aboard an Italo train from Modena, I arrived in Venice—the city of water—to visit the 2026 Venice Biennale.

To be honest, perhaps this is simply part of the Italian way of doing things, but the rhythm of train travel here is quite different from what I am accustomed to in Japan. Arrival times and platforms are often announced only at the very last moment, while the stations themselves can be surprisingly complex. Delays are also an everyday occurrence, making train travel a rather nerve-racking experience.

In the end, this journey through Italy was full of things I had yet to discover, and I walked far beyond the station platforms, eventually earning a few blisters along the way. The stone-paved streets of Venice in the height of summer were certainly unforgiving, but I think that was a small price to pay for the wonderful experiences that awaited me.

Let me share some of the discoveries and moments that stayed with me throughout the journey.

As I made my way through Venice aboard the vaporetto, weaving through the waterways of this city of water, I explored the city while enjoying what little breeze came off the water.

The Biennale is essentially centered around two main venues: the Arsenale and the Giardini. Each has its own vaporetto stop, making it possible to simply board a boat and head directly to the exhibitions.

It is a truly Venetian way of getting around, with the waterways serving as the city’s roads. Even from Venice Marco Polo Airport, a water taxi can take you directly to the waterfront entrance of many hotels. What an elegant way to arrive.

And then, of course, there was the Biennale itself.

At the Giardini, each national pavilion presented a variety of works, and I was particularly struck by the number of large-scale pieces distinguished by their sculptural beauty.　

I have included some footage from the venue to give you a sense of what the exhibition was like.

At the Arsenale, I found a particularly rich presence of sculptures and other three-dimensional works. The setting itself felt almost like a palace, with a wide range of works on display, including video and photography.

Yet what left the deepest impression on me was not the oil paintings, which are personally my favorite, but the works created with crayons. They evoked a world reminiscent of a picture book, a quiet and almost dreamlike world that I found unexpectedly captivating.

The world of painting is often seen as being centered around the United States and Europe, but this time, many of the works were by artists from Africa, the Middle East, and Latin America. They carried a sensibility quite different from what I had encountered before, and I found myself excited by the sense that something new was emerging. There was so much to discover that my curiosity seemed endless. I even found myself wanting to add one of the works to my own collection.

Finally, I would like to tell you about the island of Lido, where I chose to stay during my visit.

Lido is a long, narrow island, about a 15-minute vaporetto ride from Venice’s main island. It is perhaps best known as the home of the world-famous Venice International Film Festival. During the festival, the quiet island transforms completely, welcoming some of the biggest movie stars from around the world and becoming even livelier than Venice itself. It is a rather fascinating place, with two very different faces depending on the time of year.

In everyday life, Lido is a wonderfully peaceful island, home to many lovely older residents. Watching them begin their mornings with a walk alongside their beloved dogs, stopping by a café for a cappuccino and simply enjoying the rhythm of island life, I cannot help but feel a little envious. There is something deeply appealing about such a gentle way of living.

Unlike Venice’s historic main island, Lido has a distinctly different character. With its long beaches, resort hotels, and even a small airport, it feels more like an elegant seaside resort than part of the bustling city.

Buses and cars move freely through the island, and at its far end lies a long stretch of beach, just a few minutes’ walk away. Some of the high-end hotels have even acquired sections of the beach and turned them into private areas for their guests. All of this gives Lido a character quite unlike Venice itself.

In fact, I found myself growing more fond of Lido than of Venice’s main island.

If you ever visit Venice, I highly recommend staying on the peaceful island of Lido rather than in the bustle of the main island. In the early morning, the island is so quiet that the noise and crowds of Venice seem worlds away. Take a leisurely walk, stop by a café, and enjoy a cappuccino as the day slowly begins.